After our delayed flight landed in Salt Lake City at 9pm, we found the Hertz airport rental office and packed our bags into a large, luxurious, black Lincoln Nautilus. We programmed the in-car navigation to take us to the ‘Super 8 Wyndham Motel’. If the title wasn’t immediately as recognisable as a Hilton or a Comfort Inn, there’s probably a reason for that! Near the airport, there was a cluster of airport hotels. The Wyndham was right there amongst others we’d have probably preferred. It had come up on the internet as the closest to the airport which is why we chose it. As close as it was, the navigation took us in a wide circle around the airport, before spiralling back in on the Wyndham. It proved to be a very down-at-heel establishment. The room was spartan, reasonably clean but strangely smelly. But the bed was comfortable and we were so tired that was all that mattered.

We arrived at Jackson Lake Lodge at about 4.30 pm. It comprised the historic, large, lodge style hotel, with a number of successive, outlying additions in the form of single and double storey ‘cottages’. After checking in, we made our way to room 909, on the top floor of two at the outer edge of the development. The view from our room was magnificent. It looked out over an expanse of wetland, stretching into the distance to a glistening blue lake at the foot of the incredible rugged snow capped peaks of the Teton range of glnacier carved mountains! It was breathtaking to have such an outlook.

Next morning, we went down the road to a nearby diner and had a ‘hearty’ breakfast (that’s code for Australians seeking a light repast, being furnished with a plate that would feed a starving family!). After that, we checked out and set the navigation for Jackson Lodge, Grand Teton. It was a long 6 hour drive through Utah, Idaho and into Wyoming. We had to cross two state borders before we could get a decent cup of coffee. We’d been holding off for coffee in a large town, but with fatigue beginning to set in after more than 3 hours at the wheel, we had to stop. In the small town of Alpine, Wyoming, we pulled up in front of a general store. The most unexpected surprise was inside – a REAL coffee machine! We savoured a very strong, well made Latte. Feeling revitalised, we set off for the remainder of our journey. Soon after leaving Alpine, the road headed up into the mountains.

Food options at the lodge were limited. A fine dining restaurant, a 50’s style diner, a bar with ‘snack’ options, and a (real) coffee bar with pastries and savoury croissants. The whole guest lounge area was teeming with conference people when we arrived. It was a combined BBC and National Geographic event. Almost every seat in the lounge was taken, either by excessively loudly talking people or strewn with backpacks or camera equipment. We decided to settle in and come back later to have a relaxed meal after our long day. So we opted for the diner. The portion sizes were huge, the food poor, and the service appalling. The waitress we had was over-the-top, effervescently but superficially attentive, inanely enquiring if we were happy, while providing the poorest service. The meal itself was so unpalatable that we decided never to try the diner again. But there were plenty of Americans happily shovelling greasy food into themselves at the counter. That awful sight was as much a disincentive to go back there as was the culinary disappointment.

We’ve spent our time here walking the walking trails surrounding the vast wetland area, around the Emma Matilda Lake. The terrain is hilly and stoney. There are only a limited few paths crossing the wetland itself, only providing access to the hilly trails. But the scenery is breathtaking. Open wetlands are interspersed with pockets of pine trees and stands of Aspens. The Aspens have already yellowed and the leaves are beginning to redden. Our walks are about two hours each day. Back in our cottage, we sit out on the verandah in the warm sunshine, looking out at the mountains, with a cup of tea! Out on the distant wetland, we can see a small herd of Elk grazing. It is just too far for our 230mm telephoto lens to make them more than the size of an insect. The more ardent nature watchers have far bigger lenses than we do.

We booked for a 10 mile raft trip down the Snake river, a protected wilderness area. We were picked up at 4.30 pm as part of a group of 11 rafters, with Michael our raft guide. The rafting craft was a huge inflatable boat about 5 metres long and 3 metres wide. Michael stood amidships, controlling our river ‘descent’ with long oars, manoeuvring and steering the raft around rocks and fallen trees. The river is only about a metre deep, crystal clear, with a round, rock strewn bed, a legacy of the glacial past. The 10 miles was covered in just over 2 hours. Along the way, we had hoped to see some of the larger wildlife such as Elk or bears, but to no avail. However we did see bald eagles and other native birds. We saw trees dramatically gnawed away by beavers! It was as if they’d been ringbarked and one even looked as if an axeman had tried to fell it. But, as evening fell, so did the temperature. We were well ‘layered’ with warm clothes, over it all was a snug fitting life vest, further insulating us. Fortunately, while the river was fast flowing, it wasn’t a wet, white water experience, so we all stayed dry.

Back at the hotel after dark, we ate a light meal of charcuterie and a cheese platter in the Blue Heron Lounge, accompanied by a refreshing salad. Then, tired from the long day of walks and rafting, we retired to our warm cottage. The weather up to this point had provided warm, clear sunny days, chilling down noticeably in the evenings. The forecast was for snow (at least in Yellowstone), but we suspected we’d wake to rain next morning. But, to our surprise, we opened our curtains to see soft snow falling over the wetlands and the mountains hidden from view in the mist. We’ve been warned that the roads into Yellowstone could be closed without warning if the weather turns. That might prevent us getting in, or worse, see us being stranded in the park, unable to get out! Although everyone says the road clearing machines keep things open as far as it’s possible.

The Grand Tetons were indeed covered with a thick dusting of snow and so we headed off for Yellow Stone National Park.